Country pub of the week: the Jolly Cricketers, Beaconsfield

The Jolly Cricketers wasn’t always jolly; once it was just the Cricketers, and jolliness was kept to a minimum — at least when the landlord was behind the bar and suspiciously eyeing newcomers.

But for the past 17 years, Chris and Amanda Lillitou have brought cheer to the handsome redbrick Buckinghamshire pub. Hardens reports that Amanda trained at Pierre Koffman’s legendary La Tante Claire, which explains the food. Though it’s simple — hake with battered cod cheek; a chicken schnitzel; steak — the execution is first-rate. This is a pub to cycle to for a lingering lunch and gin and tonics out on the green. It might be somewhere to return to for the quiz or a little music one night. However it goes, jolliness is easily achieved. Not much room for cricket, though.

24 Chalfont Road, Beaconsfield HP9 2YG, thejollycricketers.co.uk